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旅日記 11.3 ケニア

今回はナイロビとモンバサ

ナイロビケニアの首都で1700mの高地にあります。だから涼しい。(日中はそれなりに暑いけど)
東アフリカでは一番の都会。

0_400


空港から街中までの車の中、おとなしそうな爺運転手にラジオをつけてもらう。
いつもの旅占い。

軽やかなギターにアフリカらしいビート。ベースがめちゃかっこいい。
リンガラ?いや、もっとマイルド。言葉もリンガラっぽくない。スワヒリ?うーん。

アナウンサーが何か言った。でもスワヒリだからわからない。

モフォ「ねえ、この音だれ?」
運転手「あん?デオ・ミシアニだって言ってたよ」
「ミシアニ?これベンガ?」
「あん?イエース、ベンガだよ」

Benga_blast_front_200

ベンガ/Bengaはケニアのルオの人たちの音から出てきた60-70年代に出来上ったって言われる音楽。
ルオの人たちってビクトリア湖/ウガンダあたりからケニアの西の方に住む人たち。名前がO(で始まることが多い。オディアンボとかオカチとかオチョラとか。

もともとニャティティって弦楽器を持ってる人たちがエレキギターやベースの時代になって作り上げたスタイルの音楽。そしてその元祖みたいなのがダニエル・オウィノ・ミシアニ/Daniel Owino Misiani、そうD.O.ミシアニなのだ。

そうか、今回の旅はこれを掘れっつーことか!(←いや、そうじゃなくて仕事で来てるんですが・・・)

ということでベンガの歴史のCD&DVD(ブックレット付)をゲット。
Nmkbenga031208_400_2


◆◆◆

ナイロビでの仕事をこなし、翌日はモンバサへ。

モンバサは東アフリカ第一の港町であると同時に海辺のリゾートホテルがあったりする観光地の側面も。

元々アラブ人が統治していたがポルトガル人がやってきて植民地にし、そして17世紀には再びアラブ(オマーン)領となってまたポルトガル領となり・・・と文化がまじりあう。そして19世紀に英領となって'1963年のケニア独立とつながっていく。

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旧市街の混じり合いは不思議。かなりボロボロだけど、ポルトガル領の香り、アラブの香り、そしてブラック・アブリカの香りが同時に感じられる街並み・建物。どこに迷い込んだのだろうと思うようなエキゾチックさと浮遊感と香料の香りが漂う。

5_400

このの音楽とは直接触れ合えなかったが、やはりアラブとスワヒリが混じり合う音があるという。
ぜひ次回は掘り下げねば(←いや、仕事で来てるんだって・・・)

◆◆◆
ナイロビに戻ると友達が言う。 友「明日は早起きして公園で散歩しよう」

ということで朝6時、まだ暗いうちに宿を出る。
車でちょっと行くと公園にに着いた。

『ナイロビ国立公園』
何人か朝の散歩に来ている。犬の散歩のためではないようだ。
公園とのことだが、滑り台もベンチもブランコもない。

中に入ると地平線の向こうに日が昇ってきた。夜明けだ。
6_400

あ、のらキリンが朝飯を食ってる。
1_400

あ、のらバッファローが用を足している。
2_400

あ、のらだちょうが朝のおしゃべり中。
3_400

こどもキリンがこちらをじっと見ている。

あ、のら人間がいる


と言っているようだった。


◆◆◆

3時間ほど公園を散歩し、外へ出た。などへ戻る途中キベラの横を通った。

キベラは、南アのソウェトに次ぐアフリカ第二の規模を持つスラム。赤茶けた屋根がずっとならぶ風景。ソウェトとおんなじ。一人当たりの1日の稼ぎは1ドル以下だという。でもここにパワーがきっとあるのだ。ここに貧しくてそして普通の生活があるのだ。きっとラップとか形の都市の音楽があるに違いない。

ぜひ次回は掘り下げねば(←だから、仕事で・・・)

◆◆◆

ケニアでは会う人会う人全員が皆地震と津波のことを心配してくれた。原発の事も伝わっていて「ずっとおれんち泊ってればいいよ」「家族も呼び寄せろ」「寄付をしたい」・・・

YouTubeをみるとなんとキベラの子供たちが日本のために祈ってくれていた。


なんとも気持ちの落ち着かない日々が続いているけど、

こういう子供たちの声を聴くと

力が湧いてくる気がする。

ありがとう、みんな!

|

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